Alka Dalmia, a Kolkata veteran and fan, takes us on a morning walk through the chai addas of her city.
It’s 5am, the streets are empty and the sun is just about coming up. But, Kolkata rises early, and the city’s morning walkers are a breed unto themselves.
Soon, Kolkata’s beautiful parks are filled with serious and not-so-serious groups of people walking, running, laughing, animatedly talking, gossiping, and chanting.
What follows is that which is unique to Kolkata. Hordes from these parks will descend on the streets of the city, heading to its many chai places. There is always coffee available, but Kolkata’s romance and marriage with tea is on another level, making kaapi seem like a mere flirtation.
Our first stop is the once glorious Calcutta Stock Exchange at Dalhousie, the old business district of Kolkata. Its traders have long gone, but what remains are its tea stalls like Kona Dukaan and Shankars, with their welcoming streetside benches and chairs, serving piping chai along with the popular chini malai toast. If you are not a malai person (though you should know, malai is a great source of calcium), then there is salt and pepper crisp toasted bread to dunk into garam chai. Also on offer: soft steaming idlis served by dabba idliwallas, ‘Schezwan’ dosa, cheese chilli corn toast, and Bengali shingara stuffed with the humble aloo and peanuts.
It’s time to crawl to our next stop which is Arun Tea Stall or ATS at Theatre Road. We are in the heart of the city, with shopping arcades, schools, upscale restaurants, and jazzy Park Street all around.
At this hour though, this place is all about chai and adda! Small coloured plastic stools are lined on the pavement, with groups of people discussing politics, the weather, sports, and cinema. What is special here is the ATS’ jhaag chai, or the foam tea which is simply chai with a mound of froth topping it. It is served with crispy hanky nimkis, and crunchy Ramakrishna brand toast which is sprinkled with salt and pepper.
Across the road, Annaras Store is swamped with people jostling to get packets of freshly made, delicious besan gathiya or fafda, accompanied by raw papaya laccha. These places are a haven for anyone who loves their morning cuppa. There is also daab pani, freshly squeezed sugarcane juice, and freshly cut fruit to choose from.
Our final stop is Balwant Dhaba and Sharma Tea House near Elgin Road Gurudwara. Balwant Dhaba is probably one of the oldest chai places in the city and is home to old timers who have been walkers for more than two decades. These patrons come in big groups, have a set order, and regularly settle monthly accounts amounting to thousands of rupees. Along with chai, they get special service, extra warmth, and premium seats, all especially reserved for them!
Kadak elaichi kesar chai along with the popular chanachur (a mixture of bhujiya, gathiya, peanuts, chana, and masala, from Saurashtra Nimki house next door) makes this place worth visiting. The morning comes to a close with a plate of Sharma’s club or hing kachori (Club kachoris are small ural dal puris and derive their name from the way the fillings are layered and clubbed together with flour), with hot aloo sabji and kesariya jalebis. Accompany these with a glass of thick cold malai lassi.
Ufff…This Morning chai adda is a ritual – period!!
