The âchief mithaiwalaâ at Bombay Sweet Shop ate his way through Varanasiâs street treats for, erm⊠research and training purposes. We snagged his list. Here are his seven best spots featuring chaat and cheeni.
When we learned that Chef Gâ as we call him, you may know him as Chef Girish of Bombay Sweet Shop â had recently eaten his way around Varanasi during a mithai-making research trip, we accosted him with great anticipation. Since of course, we wanted firsthand insider info for an enthuGuide.
In our discussion, we gathered that Varanasi runs on chaat and mithai. When it comes to chaat, there are six popular places, each with their distinct signature dishes. As for mithai, all Chef G had to say was that everyone goes over the top with malai in the winter. With so many milk mandis around, the quality of the milk is superbly, and unmatchably fresh.
We totally trust Chef Gâs palate, and if you ever find yourself roving around in Varanasi from November to February, you should too.
Say its name, and you can imagine it. Tamatar chaat is tangy, spicy, and chatpata. Itâs a dish that has a surprise in each biteâexpect both green tomatoes and crunchy bits of shakarpara. The chaat itself is gravy-like, with a distinct flavour of hing, as much as, say, a masala puri in Bangalore but only better. Chef G, says youâll find the best one at Kashi Chat Bhandar.
Apart from Varanasiâs specialty tamatar chaat, they also serve a delectable palak patta chaat and an aloo tikki chaat. Thereâs also a âpeasâful chaat, the choora matar chaat which is, as the name indicates, a combination of fresh green peas and poha.
Where: Kashi Chat Bhandar
Timings: 2.30pm to 10.30pm.
The moong dal-stuffed kachoris at Nilu Kachaudi Bhandar are slightly bigger than two-rupee coins. They come two to a plate, alongside black chana ghugni, and a shredded radish and carrot kachumber, all to be eaten with a wooden ice cream spoon. Chef G ate six plates every day he was there, which earned him an additional free plate. So famous are Niluâs kachoris, the shop is used as a landmark on Kachaudi Gully.
Where: Nilu Kachaudi Bhandar
Timings: 6.30am to 2pm.
The end is sometimes the best part, especially when weâre talking about the crusty ends of samosas stirred into chole gravy.
Right off the bat, Chef G says that it would be easier to locate his favourite samosaâpuri-chole spot in Varanasi if you look for it with a local or a frequent visitor to the city. Tucked into one of the very many narrow gullies, opposite the main Shiv Temple, this chole thela won his heart (even over the cityâs famous bedmi puri), most likely because it contained the best bits of a samosaâ the crimped ends, the nice crispy bits. The textural play of the dish on his palate made it one of the best finds of his trip.
Where: In one of the gullies opposite the main Shiv Temple.
We recommend asking a local’s help to find this place. It’s not on the maps.
Malai is the first thing made from milk in Varanasi â itâs everywhere. Shreejiâs is special because they serve absolutely fresh Malaiyo. Itâs light and fluffy, and eating it feels like our childhood dream of eating a cloud has come true. Here, plenty of saffron is added to this mousse-like confection, and it is served in a matka. You can also get a refill of the saffron milk.
Plan an early start for Shreejiâs, because after 10am, the foam begins to deflate.
In the evening, the shop makes malai puris with the malai skin. These are much like malpuas, but even more rich and delicious, seeing as they are sprinkled with sugar and pistachios. The rasmalai is the best that Chef G has ever had, and thatâs saying something.
Where: Shreeji’s
Timings: 7am to 11pm
Palang tod is nothing like the paan with the same name. Varanasiâs version has buffalo milk malai reduced over a stove powered by cow dung. It is a slow-burning fuel, that yields a slow-cooked, better malai. This thick, textured milk is then layered with saffron. There is no stall, just a vendor seated on the pavement of Nandan Sahu Lane, who prepares only one kilogram of palang tod every day, so itâs best to get there early enough to avoid disappointment.
Where: Nandan Sahu Lane, Ghasitola
Did you know that in Varanasi thandai is actually dairy-free, and is usually made either with almond and/or pistachio milk? Shivamrit Thandai imports all its ingredients. They get their hugely aromatic and flavourful rose petals from Poland. Chef G says theyâre texturally like chewing gum. The edible gold in this thandai is said to be beneficial for health, but Chef G takes that statement with a pinch of salt.
He does recommend Shivamritâs coffee- and rose-flavoured thandais, howeverâŠ
For those seeking a more interesting experience, there is bhaang available here, but one must be prepared for the five hours that follow.
Where: Shivamrit Thandai
Timings: 9am to 11pm
Itâs always raining lal pedhas in Varanasi. But a lal pedha with the texture of a brownie? Yes, please if you are willing to take an aromatic trek across a cowshed, like Chef G did. At Rasvanti, lal pedha has the crispy top and the soft gooey centre of a brownie, with some mishri hidden in it, for added crunch. Rasvanti is not only the name of the shop, but also of its most famous dessert, a gulab jamun stuffed in a ball of khoya.
Where: Rasvanti
Timings: 8am to 11pm