Chef Gresham Fernandes divides his time between Mumbai and Goa. In Mumbai, he helms the kitchen of Bandra Born. Goa is where his family and family home is.
Friends in food and food media have been asking us for a while to snag Gresh’s Goa list – the one with all the places that he eats at when he’s being a full-on Goa local. For them and for you, dear cutlet, here are some of Gresh’s favourite spots for sannas, alsande, and beef sandwiches.
With neuris, fugias, and choris, Bombay’s and specifically Bandra’s history informs chef Gresh’s menu at Bandra Born, his four-month-old restaurant off the northern end of Mumbai’s sea link.
“Like Goa, Bandra was also once upon a time, a Portuguese colony, before the British came in. When Bombay was seven islands, Bandra was always part of the city’s mainland. So Bombay’s history has a mix of Portuguese, British, Anglo-Indian, Maratha, and Koli. I remember Bandra being like a hamlet in Goa a few decades ago. The scary part is where Bombay is right now, is where Goa will be in another 20 years or so.”
Gresh’s Glorious Goa Guide
Kamlabai Sea Food Restaurant
I love the thali in Kamlabai. They use a lot of local fish. A lot of the fish you don’t get at the tourist spots, you’ll get at Kamlabai – seasonal fish, small fish, brackish water fish, fish that are in very short supply, and available in very small quantities, just for a day or two. Just when we’re entering Goa to go for a rave, from the Mapusa Bus Stand we walk over to Kamlabai and have a thali.
Junction of Canca Bypass Road and Kasarwada, Khorlim, Mapusa. Tel: 098507 03343.
Sant Tome Cafe Corner
Sant Tome is a small cart in Aldona Market, and what’s really great about them is their sandwiches. They make these great beef sandwiches and beef samosas. I really like their mackerel cutlets. Whenever we have friends over, the food is Sant Tome.
Market, Naicavaddo, Aldona. Tel: 09168812505.
Chef Peter’s Kitchen
Chef Peter’s kitchen has been around for a really long time, and it’s one of the places where, those who know, know. It’s got some great Goan food, made using a very traditional style of Goan cooking. What I like over there is that they do these dry Bombay ducks, they’re fried and fucking insane. If you like it you like it, if you get it – you get it. The sannas are great. It’s all home cooking, done by a professional chef. The restaurant is in the compound of the chef’s house. He makes his own vinegar, and all the sauces and masalas are ground using this homemade vinegar that is on point.
Volvaddo, Pilerne. Tel: 088051 45181
Cafe Tato
This place is mainly known for its veg stuff and snacks. What I like that they make this patal potato bhaji with banana sweet buns. The alsande, which is like a bean stew, is also very nice.
No. G3, Souza Towers, Dr RS Rd, Near Municipal Garden, Altinho, Panaji. Tel: 098905 44143.
Savoi Plantation
This is run by a guy called Sachin. This is a betel nut plantation, and they also have a spice farm. It’s a beautiful space. His mother and his wife cook a lot of traditional Gaud Saraswat Brahmin food and a lot of fish. The best breadfruit chops I’ve ever had are at Savoi.
50, Savoi, Marcel Ponda Road, Ponda. Tel: 096378 38389.
