Peak Navjote season coincides with peak wedding season, so we’ve been delightfully tossing back a whole lot of topli paneer these last few weeks.
Topli paneer, a delicate, community-specific variety of Parsi cheese is an acquired taste that very quickly becomes a craving. The first time we had topli paneer, we were puzzled by its popularity. Since that first taste though, we have never passed up a chance to have this lactic, slightly tangy, savoury panna cotta-like delicacy.
We got chatting with Parvana Mistry, one-fourth of the fourth generation of the Parsi Dairy Farm family, to tell us a bit about topli paneer, and three more Parsi treats that should get as much airtime as lagan nu custard if not more.
Parvana really knows her food. She studied baking and patisserie at Sophia Polytechnic College, trained at the Taj Mahal Hotel, and went on to learn French cuisine and patisserie at Le Cordon Bleu London before joining her mother’s family business, Parsi Dairy Farm based out of Mumbai. Here’s what she says…
Parvana’s favourite Parsi treats –
Topli Paneer
Topli paneer reminds me of my childhood. I would have it once in 15 to 20 days, by some aunty at her home. Different people make it differently. It had ridges on top because it was made in baskets or toplis. The paneer portions would come in a huge pool of water – like little mozzarella balls – and we would fish for them. Today’s versions are more modern, they are made in moulds and more smooth looking. It’s more commercial now, but still only made by caterers.
Get it here: call Mumbai-based Parsi caterer Delna Tamboly on +91 98206 60994 to place an order a couple of days in advance.
Doodh Puff
Doodh puff is an airy, fragile, temperature-controlled product made with whipped milk. So, growing up, I only had this when my mom made it. I had never seen it available commercially. When we started making it at Parsi Dairy Farm in Talasari, just outside of Bombay, it was only on order. But then, so many people were asking for it that we put it on the regular menu. On weekends now we make double and triple the amount that we do on weekdays.
Get it at: Parsi Dairy Farm, National Highway 8, Talasari 401606
Parsi Sev
Oh, Parsi sev is amazing. It’s a mouthful. It’s one of my favourites. We Parsis like the sev nice and roasted, a very dark brown, with plenty of pure ghee and sugar and nuts and dried fruits. Parsi sev is not a very easy recipe – one of the hardest parts is getting the sev to be what we call “chhutta” or nicely separated. If it is lumpy, you have failed the test – you are not a very good cook. The technique reminds me of making risotto – you have to be there, you can’t pour too much liquid at one time, you have to be slow. It’s still a simple dish. It’s considered to be very auspicious, so if there is any celebration, there will be sev and mithoo dahi.
Get it at:
Ratan Tata Institute, Hughes Road, Babulnath, Mumbai 400007.
Parsi Dairy Farm shops across Mumbai, including the one at Shamaldas Gandhi Marg, Princess Street, Marine Lines, Mumbai 400002.
Instagram: @parsi_dairy_farm
Karachi Jalebi
Made with really fine strands of jalebi batter swirled together and fried like a huge cake, Karachi jalebi is special for the thinness and crispiness of its layers. When you break it, its texture is crisp but very juicy. We make this only on orders. For every 30 or 35 piped jalebis, we’ll make four of the Karachi. This sweet is not that well known, but I have noticed that if you tell a customer who wants it, ‘Karachi jalebi is not available today, would you like the piped one?’, they absolutely refuse.
Get it on order at: Parsi Dairy Farm shops across Mumbai, including the one at Shamaldas Gandhi Marg, Princess Street, Marine Lines, Mumbai 400002.
Header Image Credit: plates_and_pleats